No pictures this time. We are in an area without widely available internet. After taking our dinghy to an even prettier cove down the way, and leaving it under the watchful eye of an honest appearing gentleman drinking a cerveza, we trekked through some weeds to Mexico Highway 1 and found “Bertha’s” who sold us wifi for $2 but unfortunately I can’t upload photos….maybe manna.
Greetings from Baja and hopefully this is correct grammar; “Happy Semana Santo.” Seamore Pacific is anchored just off Playa El Burro in Bahia Concepcion. Darn, if it is not gorgeous. When I look to the left I see emerald water, birds, rocks, and mountains. When I look to the right I see a white sand beach connecting to a mountain range. Only bits of sand are visible due to the amount of tents and palm thatched huts, and I’m guessing that throughout the day people are knuckle bumping one another, saying, “Darn, if it is not gorgeous here.”
In case you might be wanting to book a flight and join us, hold off until I also tell you that in the afternoon, the bay becomes a washing machine, thanks to jet skis and jet boats. But, as the sun goes down and the toys run out of gas, the “jet-cees” head to shore, deaf, sunburned, and in want of a cerveza or two. The Captain and I on the other hand, are in need of a hammer to bash out ZWEEE-ZZSH-ZWEEEEEE that is stuck on replay in our ears. Francis the cat deals by downing shots of Captain Morgan and then passing out. Joking and drama aside, we are actually having fun taking it all in. It’s actually quite a riot of activity. It’s not what we were expecting, which is one reason we enjoy cruising Mexico. If we found things, just as we expected, would there be any reason to visit? Oh yes, did I mention Mexico Highway 1 wraps around the cove? So add to the mix, semi-trucks using air brakes as they come down the mountain. For every semi-truck, there must be a dozen or so colorful delivery trucks carrying Sabritas, Bimbo, Tecate, etc. Maybe it’s the sun, the noise, or simply because we have the time to observe life, but it’s become one of our crazy past-times….watching cute toy-model trucks come around the mountain. Some actually play music through large speakers mounted on the roof.
Even with a whole lot of people and truck watching, we do manage to squeeze in a bit of the other stuff that folks back home would expect of cruisers anchored in the clear emerald waters of Baja. Yesterday we took the dinghy up onto the beach to do some land exploring. It was the first time on land since we left San Carlos, three days before. We then cooled off by jumping off the boat into the beautiful, refreshing water. Today, we are doing practice drills of climbing from the water into the dinghy. Once we master that, we can graduate to snorkeling off Tecomate rock. Wouldn’t that be a kicker to take our inflatable to Tecomate rock, jump over and snorkel, then find we can’t get back in the boat? I picture two feuding swimmers towing a dinghy through Jet Ski central.
Part of the fun of being in Baja is the crossing over from San Carlos. In fact, we joked when we arrived and saw the place packed with people, that we could just turn around and make several back and forth crossings until we have our fill of solitude. Leaving San Carlos at 11:40 a.m. we had the sea to our selves, not seeing another boat until the next morning. The winds were light but enough to keep the mainsail happy. The seas were calm, the sky cloudy, and our spirits high. Sailing at night gives me butterflies. I am usually so nervous in the day leading up to it that I just need to go and get the jitters worked out. This time was no different, except that the butterflies left instantly and I felt calm rather than anxious when the sun went down. Except when the unexpected happens, the boat takes on a certain rhythm and purpose. Everyone’s focus (including Francis the cat) is safety. Whether it’s never straying from the habit of using a harness when on deck, staying hydrated and nourished, and getting some serious shut eye, it’s what Seamore Pacific demands of her crew. In turn, she takes us out and beyond the horizon to connect with nature and sharpen the senses. A tiny example of proof: Godiva Chocolate never tastes as good as it does when enjoyed while on night watch.
Excerpts from ships log:
1140 Motored out of Bahia San Carlos after filing exit papers with Port Captain. Flat calm with a million gnats! At least they don’t bite.
1330 Gnats are gone. A little lumpy but not bad. Wind is 15knots just off the nose. Francis is asleep in his bunk. Just finished lunch of chicken salad and Sabritas
1430 Wind on the quarter beam. Raised the main. I’m rusty at pointing to wind….according to the captain.
1730 Just finished dinner (all three of us). I made burritos in foil, with chips and salsa. Downed a large Coke. Francis is back in his bunk after eating, drinking, and having a potty break. He is adjusting nicely.
1900 Watched the sun set and now it’s time to hit the hay. Captain Chameleon is at the helm. I make a bed on the port side of the cockpit. I like to sleep out in the open to prevent sea sickness and it also calms my nerves.
- I’m awake and take on night watch, first checking coarse heading, gauges, and sail. Now it’s Godiva time. Winds are 5-12 knots S-SW. Cloudy night….only see stars here and there.
0100 I crawl under the covers and it’s the Captain’s turn. I am so tired.
0430 I’m back on watch and wake the Captain because I see a panga just off our starboard side. The panga is running without lights and I’m wondering what they are up to. I’m doubly trouble that I didn’t pick them up on radar. Close enough to us that I hear voices, I make a plan that if they attempt to board I will surprise them with turning on high powered lights and spraying them with a fire extinguisher. Groggy from sleep, Captain Chameleon does all of the right things! And determines it is not a panga silly girl, it’s the lights of Mulege bouncing off the clouds. I feel a bit silly and could use another piece of Godiva.
0500 Bahia Concepcion is only 5 miles away. Abiding by our rule to not enter unfamiliar bays at night , due to reefs, rocks, and shoaling (unless weather, crew, or boat assist is needed) we turn around and head back to sea until the sun comes up.
0630 Coming into Bahia Concepcion. Greeted by skipping stingrays, dolphins, seals, and birds.
0930 Dropped the anchor in Playa El Burro. Depth is 17 ft with sandy bottom. Time for breakfast and a shower.
Love that you can turn annoyances like air brakes and jet skiers into FUN…! And I’m definitely going to try the Godiva Chocolate on our upcoming passage from Chamela to Muertos!
Fantastic – Glad you had a great sail to the Baja! The big rock just to port of Berthas in the bay is called Chocolate Rock – nice rock but not as “nice as Godiva’s”. We are having a slow but very nice sail south, Looking forward to dropping the hock in the P.V. area Soon you will have the beaches to your self. Enjoy. s/v Magic Carpet, Donna & Greg